Every barber has a handful of tried and true barbering techniques up their sleeve, and having a mastery of these techniques is the difference between an expert barber and a barber that leaves you less than impressed. However, it's not only your barber that should be familiar with the essential elements of delivering a fantastic men's haircut. Clients that understand the basics of men's haircuts will be better suited to tell their barber what they want, and perhaps even more importantly, they will be able to tell which barbers are worth visiting. Skillful barbers can easily utilize the following techniques, and it's a combination of these that they'll use to give you the haircut you want.
Technique #1: Scissors Over Comb
If you go into any barber shop, one item you will always see in ample supply are combs. Combs are an essential tool and can be used to cut hair as part of the scissors over comb technique. The scissors over comb method is used for creating layers using either horizontal or vertical sections of hair, and this is normally done on shorter hair. If your hair is longer on top, sometimes your barber will use this method to define the side area. Barbers use the comb to lift the hair and provide a guide for the scissors while you cut. Often the result of your barber utilizing the scissors over comb technique is a softer hairstyle.
Technique #2: Scissors Over Fingers
Similar to the scissors over comb technique, one of the other most common haircutting methods that can be used in both men’s and women’s cuts is the scissors over fingers technique. With scissors over fingers, the barber creates layers with horizontal or vertical sections of your hair. This technique can be used on many different hair lengths, and can be done with any type of haircutting scissors. To do this, your barber will cut your hair over the top of their fingers, with the palm facing up. They can perform this type of cutting technique on all of your hair’s sections to create a multidimensional style.
Technique #3: Clipper Over Comb
If you’ve spent any time in a barbershop, chances are that you’ve observed the clipper over comb technique, which is perhaps the quintessential skill any barber needs to learn in order to cut men’s hair properly. As the name suggests, this method is very similar to the scissors over comb technique, however, your barber will use a clipper instead of scissors. While the scissors over comb technique give you a softer look, using a clipper over scissors achieves a more shaved style. The size of the clipper and comb will vary based on the style of the haircut, texture, and length of the hair, and the area of the head they will be cutting. If you have thick hair, this is the ideal method for your barber to use. You’ll get the most even cut, and this technique also removes excess hair with ease.
Technique #4: Blade On Skin
One of the most old-fashioned techniques still utilized today is the blade on skin technique. Barbers often use this method of cutting to finish a haircut with a pair of scissors or a clipper. If you’ve ever had a tapered haircut, chances are you’ve had a blade on skin cut, or at least a partial blade on skin cut. This approach is also used for shorter styles to outline areas around the temple or the forehead, to clean up the area around the back of your neck, or to trim your bangs. This technique will give you a clean, precise style every single time.
Now that you are familiar with all of the basic and most frequently used barbering techniques, you are better equipped to not only tell your barber what you want but to observe which barbers are the most skillful. Remember, you should feel comfortable speaking with your barber before they start cutting, and you can ask them which techniques they plan to use to deliver the results that you want. They’ll appreciate having a knowledgeable client and you’ll walk away with a haircut that makes you feel like your most confident, best self.
